City Streets - not ventured!
Decided to take a taxi from Grant Road to Mohammed Ali Road since dinner was happening at Mohammed Ali Road. As I was trying to cross the road at Novelty Cinema, a man walking towards me started singing a sleazy song, as if trying to solicit me. I was upset and blurted out ‘bastard’! I tried to get away quickly because the crowds were in little clusters and the activity at 10 PM tonight was seeking women for satiation of biological instincts i.e. sex (and this city!!!)!
I got into a cab. In my mind, I had mapped the route the cab driver would take to get me to Mohammed Ali Road (and I was also calculating the fare and cursing myself to be so profligate these days!). The cab driver started and before I could realize, he was steering the cab in the lanes of Delhi Darbar Restaurant (now Jafferbhai’s). The lane of Delhi Darbar Restaurant at Grant Road is notoriously famous (just like TC’s Nagpada area which is known by the lingo of Bombay No. 8) for prostitution and all that which we fondly and repulsively call ‘illegal’ (and yet cannot survive without it!). I started looking around and the sights and scenes completely fascinated me.
Daily I travel through Dimtikar Street, known as Foras Road, where I watch women who have patted their lips with a noxious red colour lipstick and are seeking customers. The women on Foras Road wear a bored look on their faces. There are more middle-aged women here with a wry look, going about the (usual) business. But on this road which I am passing by today, the women were much more playful and young. They were explicit – one of them wore a sexy blue blouse which showed enough of her cleavage and breasts and this was accompanied with the same light blue coloured flair skirt! Her lips were patted with maroon lipstick and she had literally let her hair down. She was flaunting herself as she walked all over the streets. I saw three young girls in jeans and body hugging tops hanging around together. I thought I also saw a couple (literally two) of pimps. There were Nepali women too. And the rooms where the sexual activity was taking place were one room tenements. The space was congested, yet the space was personal and private. The one room tenements gave a cramped appearance and made me uncomfortable in terms of the available physical space – somehow, I conceive that sexual activity requires a decent amount of physical space, but I realize that in a city like Mumbai where space is an absolute premium, our biological instincts have made adjustments to the physical settings. (And then we also have social norms and regulations – I am not sure how I place them vis-à-vis physical space).
The street was absolutely fascinating. I have never been here. I’d like to come here, though, as I am traveling, I am imaging how difficult I will find it to walk on this street without being seen and sought as a potential provider. In my fantasies, I want to be a geisha once and I know for sure that this street was never and perhaps will never be part of my geisha fantasy imaginations. Ray was right when he said that Bombayiittes rarely walk in the city. They just use transport!
Anyway … the ride continued through lanes and streets which I had been unaware of. I watched in awe. It was like the taxi driver was my guide tonight. I became curious and decided to chat with him to see how come he knew these places in the city. I started chatting with him:
Where do you usually drive your cab? In these areas? (imagining that he is also a pimp in a way or at least a regular who ferries customer and provider regularly)
No. I go uptil Panvel, Virar, Vasai, Mira Road, if I ever those kind of fares (standard response).
Do you get these fares usually?
Not often, sometimes.
Hmmm. So how long have you been driving taxi?
Six months err … no, no, six years. But actually, I am in this line since 1985. I was in private (sector). But a private is no good. It is better to have your own venture. So I decided to get into driving taxi.
Yeah, private is no good. Best to be on your own! So, are you from Bombay?
No. I came from Nepal years ago, about twenty seven years ago. Children happened here, marriage happened here, everything. But why are you asking me these questions?
I was just curious. I have never been through those streets which you drove me through tonight. I thought you know Bombay very well.
Oh, that! Actually many people don’t like me driving through those streets so I take them through other routes. But the deal is that it is faster to get to your destination through those streets and it costs less fare. If you had told me, I wouldn’t have driven you through them.
No, no! I completely enjoyed the ride. Thanks.
I was sad to end the conversation without asking him for his name and contact numbers. He would have made an interesting person to talk to. Damn me!
But the question which I have been thinking about since the ride is what makes streets the way they are in Mumbai? I am not implying that all the streets are the same. In fact, the vibrancy of the city is the character of difference and diversity! Can planners and governments determine the fate of this city? (I hope the city will continue to upset their designs!)
Good night!